As you would imagine the food in this part of Greece is spectacular. Whether it is the fish freshly landed each day at the harbour in Koroni, the fabulous fruit and vegetables grown nearby or the abundance of oil and olives from the hundreds of trees that surround our village, you won’t go hungry. And whether you want to cook at home or eat out, there is so much to choose from.
A few of our favourite places to buy ingredients are; Joanna’s roadside stall just outside Koroni on the main road towards Methoni and Pylos. Here, you will be greeted by the warm smiles and an enthusiastic welcome and be presented with the freshest fruit and vegetables from Joanna’s plot, along with herbs and pickles.
The regular Sunday market in Koroni runs down near the harbour until around 13:00 with a good range of fruit, vegetables, honey and olives.
And close by, tucked up a back street is a wonderful rustic bakery.
There is a very friendly butcher inside the Sipsas mini-market near to the church and a bit further along a good fish shop. And in between the two of them is a truly exceptional bakery, Byzantinó, with every kind of sticky, yummy baklava you could wish for.
So you have everything you need. And of course, no trip into town is complete for us unless we have done two other things.
First, pop into see Yiannis at Kiari for an education in fantastic quality Greek wines – he also stocks a range of other local specialities, honey, wine, herbal teas and more.
And second, when all of the shopping is done, pull up a chair at Café H Sinantisi, Καφέ Συνάντηση (also known by the name of its owner ‘Takis’) and have an ice cold beer and a salad, some fried gavros or a plate of mixed meze and watch the world go by.
In Kalamata there is a vast indoor market (the Municipal Market) open daily except Sundays, which is enhanced by an open air produce market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Here are a range of butchers, fishmongers, organic food suppliers, cheese shops and delicatessen. And all around the edge and in the nearby streets are kanfenion and restaurants making the most of their proximity to such great ingredients. We love to eat at Ta Rolla (Τα Ρολλά) and do make a trip to the Φούρνος Φραγγέα (Foúrnos Frangéa) bakery at Diosithomaton 1 with a woodfired oven – it is easy to find with a heap of wood ready for the oven stacked outside. Another recommendation for eating out in Kalamata is the harbour-side Notias – if you only have one thing then try the squid ink risotto.
And if you fancy an adventure then try head out of Kalamata towards Koroni and tucked away behind light industrial units is the unique setting for Costas Vassiliadis Tavern – Ταβέρνα Στου Κώστα (Βασιλειάδης). It really is worth booking and you will not be disappointed. And note that they close in the evenings.
Much closer to home, a mere 3 minute walk, is the wonderful Nikos’ Taverna in the village itself. Almost opposite the mini market, it is fantastic, renowned for miles around for the quality of the food, (mostly organic and grown by Nikos and Aris), the size of the portions (be careful when ordering, the Greek salad will feed four!) and the small size of the bill. Open every night in spring, summer and into the autumn, (check as it now closes in the winter). Booking is recommended.
Many of the places that we love, both local and as far as Athens, can be found on this Google map list.